ELECTROLYSIS ONLINE COURSE NOW AVAILABLE IN GERMAN

Training in German

An electroepilation course available online and in German? Natürlich!

A few months after the Spanish version, it is now the turn of the German version to be launched in order to meet the demand of German-speaking countries. The official language in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Belgium, Luxembourg and Lichtenstein, German is the mother tongue of more than 120 million people. These people will now have access to the most advanced electroepilation course, allowing them to become an expert in this field. Today, 15 partner schools offer one of the Academie Dectro electrolysis classes and more partnerships are planned for the coming year.

Designed for professionals in the field of aesthetics, this 200-hour course offers a curriculum adapted to the reality of the modern hair removal market: a theoretical portion to learn the important concepts as well as a practical portion to develop good work techniques.

 

The Four Phases of The Hair Cycle

Imprimir

There are many influence factors that can affect the hair cycle such as age, heredity, hormones, medication, nutrition and even stress. Nevertheless, we all share the same hair cycle, broken down into four phases: anagen, catagen, telogen and exogen.

Anagen

This is the hair cycle’s growth phase and it is influenced by the condition of the dermal papilla, which is voluminous and made up of a vascular core. The hair being rich in melanin and hydration, this phase is the target of electroepilation and photoepilation treatments.

The length of the hair varies depending on the body region, age, sex and the individual person. With an anagen phase of 2 to 6 years, hairs can reach a length of 1.28 meters (approximately 4 feet). The anagen phase varies from 1 to 12 months for certain regions of the body, which means hair in these areas can grow from 1 to 6 cm (approximately 0.4 to 2.3 inches).

Area Hair Eyebrows Upper lip Chin Underarms Arms Bikini Legs
Duration of the anagen phase 2-6 years 1-2 months 4 months 1 year 4 months 2-4 months 2-4 months 4 months

Catagen

It is a transitional phase during which hairs stop growing, but remain attached to the dermal papilla. At this point, melanin is also no longer produced in the germinative zone. The catagen phase is the shortest and generally doesn’t last more than two or three weeks.

Telogen

This resting phase, during which cells are inactive, involves no growth of the hair shaft. Papilla atrophy occurs and the hair is ready to fall and be replaced by a new anagen hair, after the beginning of the next growth cycle. Moreover, the telogen hair being less pigmented and having a white bulb, photoepilation results are not satisfying in this phase.

About 50 to 100 telogen hairs are normally shed each day, accounting for the hairs you see in the shower and when styling your hair.

Exogen

This last phase represents the hair expulsion process. During a photoepilation treatment, the complete expulsion can take between 6 to 21 days. Once the hair has fallen, its bulb is no longer visible.

It is important to remember that the hair phase greatly influences the efficiency of hair removal. This is in fact why it is paramount to respect a strict appointment calendar: assiduity will ensure the best results!

Choosing The Right Probe

filaments

Although they are very small instruments, probes are an integral part of an electroepilation treatment and can have a considerable impact on the latter. However, it can be hard to find your way around all the available options and use the right probe with every client. We are here covering this subject to help you choose the right probe for every treatment, in order to maximize results and client satisfaction.

Insulated or non-insulated?

An insulated probe is covered with an insulating material and leaves a portion of the tip of the probe bare. That bare portion diffuses the current inside the hair follicle. The Pro-Tec probes use medical grade heat-resistant Teflon and offer two types of insulation that can adapt to any situation: IsoGard (bottom ¾ of the probe is insulated) and IsoBlend (bottom half is insulated).

The use of insulated probes is becoming more popular and is highly recommended. With insulated probes, the emitted energy is concentrated at the base of the follicle, where the germinative cells are located. By more precisely targeting the desired destruction area, the efficiency of the treatments will be superior and you’ll be able to lower your parameters, hence increasing your client’s comfort. Moreover, the insulation reduces heat diffusion and keeps it from reaching the skin’s surface, protecting it from cutaneous reactions. Since the heat is less largely diffused in the tissues, the use of insulated probes require more precision upon insertion in order for the energy to be directed on the right spots, the dermal papilla and the bulge.

Non-insulated probes are less and less used, mainly because of comfort and skin protection. Since the whole probe conducts the energy, it is spread all the way up to the skin surface. However, since the energy flows along the entire length of the hair follicle, the non-insulated probe forgives a little bit more faulty insertions.

One-piece or two-piece?

Made up of one piece, the part of the one-piece probe that is inserted in the hair follicle is the prolongation of the shank. Of conical shape, it is fine-tipped and rigid. Indeed, it is that particular shape that induces a variation of the probe’s diameter. Its use requires experience and vigilance because its rigidity makes it hard to feel the resistance that indicates the electrologists that she has reached the bottom of the follicle or that she is in a faulty insertion angle.

The two-piece probe is of cylindrical shape and is maintained in the shank by a crimping technique. The main advantage of a one-piece probe is the flexibility its shape gives it. Since the probe is independent from the shank, it slides more easily inside the follicle and, when performing difficult insertions, it allows the electrologist to feel the resistance and correct her insertion.

Calibre and type of shank

The calibre of a probe varies according to each brand’s standards. In electroepilation, Pro-Tec probes use calibres between 1 and 5, 1 being the smallest and 5 being the biggest. The choice has to be made with regards to size and depth of the hair, as well as the size of the ostium. Generally, the finer the hair, the smaller the calibre. For example, a very fine hair on a woman’s upper lip can be a size 1 or 2, whereas a coarse hair on a man’s beard can be a size 4 or 5.

There are two types of shanks : F and K. The type of shank to use is determined by the probeholder and the difference is in the shank size: F is slightly bigger than K. However, the size of the probe itself (the needle) remains the same. In fact, the use of one or the other doesn’t affect the treatment and is mainly relevant to country standards. For example, in North America, we mainly use F shanks for electroepilation, whereas K shanks are used for thermocoagulation. In some countries, like France and Australia, K shanks are used for electroepilation.

Unique features

For efficient, safe and comfortable treatments, Pro-Tec probes offer to electrologists unique features.

  • SecurGard – Each probe is individually wrapped and its packaging guarantees that it will be sterile for five years.
  • MicroGard – the rounded MicroGard tip provides the softest insertions, while preventing the tip of the probe from piercing the hair follicle, since it also allows the electrologist to feel a resistance once she has reached the bottom of the hair follicle.
  • SteriGard – always know you are using the right probe with the SteriGard colour code. Just one look to confirm which calibre you are holding. This collar also protects the probe against contamination, prevents shank and skin contact and shields the probeholder from cellular debris. It also facilitates the installation of the probe into the probeholder.

Always remember that your particular set of knowledge and skills is what makes you a hair removal professional. Don’t hesitate to ask questions and seek more precise information on the tools and equipment you are using, it will help you provide even better treatments to your clients!

ELECTROLYSIS AND MEN

men

For hormonal reasons, the pilosity of men is generally more abundant than that of women. Yet they are markedly less inclined to call on the services of an electrologist. Paradox? Not really, since pilosity is still considered, at least in our western societies, as a symbol of masculinity.

However, in recent years the man-woman ratio seems to have reached a balance, opening up a whole new market for electrologists. From the ears, once trimmed by our grandfathers’ barbers, to the intimate parts, commonly cared for with a razor, men seek more and more to get rid of their unwanted hair.

The rise of this new clientele also led the engineers of Apilus electrolysis devices to develop new effective programs to address men’s hair that are definitely bigger and coarser. Now, with new technologies, we can achieve intensity according to the client’s gender and hair size for a 100% permanent and comfortable hair removal.

So men, so there is no reason to put up with these hairs that exasperate you so much. Whether on your chest, back or neck, electrolysis simply has no limits.

IS ELECTROLYSIS SAFE?

chatsen

We sometimes get questions about the safety of electrolysis and possible long-term side effects. To address these fears, it is important to mention that this hair removal method has been around for over 140 years and no studies have identified risk factors for the health. In addition, professional electrologists have received rigorous training in the application technique, contraindications and hygiene procedures. Thus, the only “side effect” that you may encounter after an electrolysis treatment is the permanent removal of unwanted hair.

ELECTROLYSIS AND HIGH FREQUENCY CURRENT

current

Many people wonder what is the principle behind hair removal with electricity. The answer to this question requires the presentation of several factors and elements. However, in this article we have chosen to limit ourselves to the essential: The phenomenon of high frequency.

What is high frequency current ?

The principle of high frequency is based on the creation of heat in the hair follicle which distroyes the tissues and cells responsible for hair growth. Heat is developed through a logical process related to frequencies 13,56 Mhz or 27,12 Mhz. In fact, the length of those waves, which alternate from positive to negative 13 560 000 or 27 120 000 times per second, creates an attraction and a repulsion of the atoms around the probe. Those movements generate friction and vibration into the follicle creating thereby heat which destroys the cells and tissues responsible for hair growth. The speed of those frequencies (13,56 or 27,12 Mhz) creates heat a lot faster than the frequencies formerly used (1,3 or 5 Mhz). Thus, the technological evolution of electrolysis devices enables electrologists to work with shorter application times than in the past, making the treatments much quicker and more comfortable.

High frequency phenomenon in short

  1. Current
  2. Magnetic field
  3. Constant polarity change
  4. Attraction – repulsion
  5. Friction – vibration
  6. Heat creation
  7. Destruction of cells responsible for hair growth
MicroFlash

HAIR REMOVAL FOR TEENS: WHICH METHOD TO CHOOSE?

teens

Hair removal for teens is a growing trend. Teenagers are generally first in line when it comes to removing unwanted hair. As fine and light-coloured as it may be, hair is simply not tolerated. Young girls compare with each other: one friend shaves, the other doesn’t, one sees an aesthetician for waxing while the other is undergoing electrolysis. One question remains in the minds of many parents: at what age should we allow teenagers to begin hair removal and which method is the best?

 

There is no ideal age to begin hair removal; the best course of action is to discuss the subject openly with teenagers before they pick up a razor in the bathroom and shave all unwanted hair with unfortunate consequences. Here are a few methods of temporary hair removal, pilosity reduction and permanent hair removal available to today’s teenagers. We qualify certain techniques of “temporary”, because in these cases, hair is bound to grow back in the short or medium term, and it may even become darker and stronger than it was before.

Temporary Methods

Razors, clippers, depilatory lotions and abrasives are readily accessible low-cost methods. It comes as no surprise that they are very popular with teenagers. However, they generally stimulate hair regrowth, especially in sex-specific areas and the results are short-lived. In most cases, we can see the hair shaft stick out of the skin as early as the next day. As far as shaving is concerned, there is also a risk of cuts and infection if the razor is not properly disinfected or if it was borrowed from another family member. Mechanical epilators that use a coiled spring are a fairly painful method that yields mixed results at best. When using this type of device, the hair can become highly distorted and often breaks in its follicle, which promotes the formation of ingrown hair with or without infection. And hair regrowth is still stimulated and fairly quick. Bleaching creams give the hair a yellowish colour and open its scales, which increases its diameter. Even if a teenager has facial hair, it would be much better to use a different method, since this method makes the hair more noticeable once the effect of bleaching fades. Waxing and plucking are two hair removal methods that provide slower hair regrowth (up to three weeks), which is very convenient for teenagers. However, they can be painful for certain people. There is also a risk of distorted hair follicles or ingrown hair with or without infection if the technique is not properly executed. Hair regrowth is stimulated, regardless of the type of wax used: hard, soft, hot or cold, or even sugar.

Photoepilation

Hair removal by LASER or IPL (intense pulsed light) is not effective on all skin and hair types. The ideal situation is fair skin and dark hair. It is a costly technique that yields a reduction of pilosity rather than permanent hair removal. Moreover, remember that teenage hair is often quite fine and barely pigmented. For this reason, it would be better to wait until the end of adolescence before resorting to this method.

Electrolysis

Electroepilation (electrolysis) is, to date, the only permanent hair removal method known to be effective on all skin and hair types, regardless of the treated area. And with new technologies and the 27 MHz ultrarapid frequency now at our disposal, we can offer teenagers highly effective treatments with hardly any feeling. There are even insulated probes that can protect the skin surface while providing extra comfort and effectiveness. Electrolysis is therefore the ideal method to rid teenagers of unwanted hair for life. Particularly in the facial area, electrolysis is the method of choice for young women, because unlike LASER, there is no need to shave the face prior to treatment. Although it requires discipline, electrolysis is safe and has no side effects. For young girls, we do recommend waiting until the first menses before starting an electrolysis treatment to be certain her pilosity has reached maturity.

In short, regardless of the selected hair removal method, the most important thing is for teenagers to feel good about themselves. However, when the budget allows it, the ideal would be to offer them permanent hair removal. It’s an intelligent investment for which your teens will be eternally grateful.

DOES SHAVING MAKE HAIR GROW BACK FASTER?

shaving

Actually, hair doesn’t grow back, it just grows. Cutting or shaving the hair has no effect on its natural growth cycle. Depending on where it is on the body, hair grows about 1 cm per month. It goes through a growth phase, followed by a transitional phase and finally a resting phase before falling out of its follicle. Even though this process happens all over our body, we may not always be aware of it because we don’t really notice the hairs falling out unless we see them on our pillow or in the shower.

 

A hair cut in its growth phase will simply continue to grow at its usual rate until the end of its cycle. If the hair is cut during its transition or rest phase, it will simply stay at the cut length until it falls out or is replaced by a new hair. It may seem to us that the hair is growing back progressively but in fact, it is simply following its natural cycle until it is replaced by new hair. As such, a teenager who now only needs to shave one side of his face, will not have more hair on that side of his face 5 years later.

The razor cuts the exposed part of the hair. The hair seems thicker because it has been cut bluntly by the blade and lost its tapered end. This can give the impression that the hair is growing back faster and darker.

There is, however, an exception to the “shaving doesn’t make hair grow faster” rule. The rubbing of the razor does create an abrasion that stimulates blood flow (hyperemia), and it is possible that this increased blood flow can help the hair grow. This only holds true, however, in cases where the hair follicle is located in the epidermis (i.e. almost at the surface of the skin) like on a woman’s upper lip for example. As such, a woman who decides to shave the peach fuzz on her upper lip may, in fact, be encouraging hair growth in that area.

Today, rather than shaving, many hair removal methods with lasting results are available to us. With electroepilation and photo epilation, hair growth can be effectively reduced if not completely eliminated. In fact, electroepilation is a highly recommended method to remove facial hair as it requires no shaving prior to treatment.

HAIR REMOVAL: WHICH IS THE BEST METHOD?

methods

In hair removal as in many other fields, new technologies keep showing up. To make an educated choice of treatment, you must know the different methods, how they work, and their benefits. Let us show you two of the most effective technologies currently on the market: electrolysis and photoepilation.

ELECTROLYSIS

Today, electrolysis is still the only method to permanently eliminate hair. This technique involves inserting a filament into the hair follicle all the way to the bulb. An electrical current is then applied which destroys the cells that cause hair growth. Thermolysis techniques are the most frequently used because they are quick and work on all types of hair regardless of their phase. Other methods, called Blend, combine this electro-coagulation with a direct (galvanic) current to produce a chemical destruction. They require longer application, but are very effective against strong and distorted hairs. To use the Blend, however, the hair must absolutely be in the anagen phase because the galvanic current requires maximum hydration to create the chemical reaction (caustic soda) that will destroy the germinal cells.

Today, electrolysis is very comfortable thanks to improvements in the apparatus, which are more powerful and produce very fast current (in thousandths of a second). Additionally, with the ultrarapid frequency of 27 MHz, available on Apilus devices, the current can hardly be felt. This frequency, twice as fast as other hair removers on the market, makes electrolysis accessible to all because of the greater comfort offered. If you want a 100% effective and permanent hair removal treatment, opt for electrolysis. This technique developed 130 years ago has managed to adapt to and benefit from the most advanced technologies.

PHOTOEPILATION

Laser and IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) devices emit a light ray that is absorbed by the melanin in the hair. These dark pigments intercept photons and the energy produced is converted to heat. It is this heat that penetrates into the follicle and destroys the hair’s germinal cells via thermal transfer. Photoepilation allows the treatment of large areas of the body, and is specially recommended for people with dark hairs at the anagen phase.

However, this does not produce 100% permanent hair removal. It is more often referred to as long-term hair removal with a reduction of about 80% of the number of hairs and their diameter. This percentage may vary from one person to the next and from one part of the body to another. For permanent treatment, the remaining hair has to be treated with electrolysis. Besides, in spite of the many advantages of this technological evolution, certain skin and hair types require special precautions or simply can’t be treated with photoepilation, for example:

• Black skin because the risk of burns is too high. It is possible to reduce the intensity, but it would then be insufficient to satisfactorily destroy the hair.

• Gray, white, blond or light hair because of the lack of dark pigmentation (melanin). Not enough light is absorbed to destroy the hair and its bulb.

For quick results and to cover large areas of the body, photoepilation is the perfect solution. It reduces hair in a short time. It will not, however, allow you to effectively treat all types of skin and hair, and does not provide permanent hair removal.

THE CHOICE IS YOURS

Both methods have proven their effectiveness and benefits. Electrolysis is differentiated by the fact it can treat hair and skin of any color. It is also the ideal technique for facial hair. On the other hand, laser and IPL can reduce the amount of hair on larger areas in a short time. It is therefore up to the operator to suggest a treatment better adapted to each customer, considering phototype, hair color, the area to be treated, contraindications, sensitivity, time and the available budget. An accurate diagnosis and a clear explanation of the likely results are certainly a must.